A little joie de vivre in Akaroa
Nine million years of fiery volcanic activity have left Banks Peninsula with a stunning legacy of twin deepwater harbours, secluded bays and towering volcanic craters with dramatic views. Combine this scenic beauty with a rich tapestry of Māori and European heritage, and rare native wildlife, and you have a travel destination that delivers a special charm and romance.
Lyttelton, Christchurch’s port, and charming Akaroa, with its Fr
ench history and celebration of Gallic culture, are the area’s best known attractions, but a visit can’t be rushed if you truly want to enjoy the area’s unique appeal. The French have the expression ‘joie de vivre’ – the joy of life – and in Akaroa, the appeal to the spirit of romance is an exhilarating experience. Spend a morning watching or swimming with the world’s smallest dolphins – the hector’s – in the marine sanctuary, then settle in at one of the waterfront al fresco restaurants for a cool glass of Canterbury sauvignon blanc and a bowl of juicy New Zealand mussels. Then, finish the day with an evening of cordiality chatting and listening to your host, locals or world travellers, to plan the next day's adventures before retiring. We all know that sharing experiences is the bedrock of romance!
Traditionally autumn was the time for Akaroa to celebrate its 'Frenchness' with a French Festival - but now this has been transferred to a Spring Festival, it has given the Akaroa people a chance to develop the Akaroa and Bays Art Trail. Rather than a rushed day trip, Akaroa has developed a series of romantic weekends for Christchurch locals to get to know the Akaroa evenings as well as the days.
There's accommodation options to suit all tastes and budgets from camping ground, cottages, backpackers, motels, self-contained apartments, hotels and b&b lodges.
Foodies love Akaroa, not just for the food, but for the location and the French influence on the menus. Waterfront bistros and cafes along Beach Road are very popular but others prefer the back streets where gastronomic surprises can be found such as an excellent restaurant where the influence is more Tuscan than French! Such competitions as the Monteiths 'Wild Food' challenge combined with the ambience of the harbour has developed the menus in Akaroa and given the diner a good array of options. A 'must' is Akaroa salmon, which is sea-farmed and has firmness of texture not found in the freshwater equivalent. This feature allows chefs to explore their art - best cooked underdone to get the full flavour and without powerful sauces, Akaroa Salmon features on most of Akaroa's restaurant menus.
On the way to Akaroa you pass through Duvauchelles Bay where you can find the good old French classics such as Coq au Vin and Duck a L'orange. It used to be a secret, but the fish and chip shop in Akaroa is probably now world famous if the number of backpackers from around the globe is anything to go by. There is something quite romantically Bohemian about eating a good 'feed' of fish and chips on a waterfront park bench watching a sunset over the harbour. The shop is supplied by the last commercial fishing boat in Akaroa and you can't get much fresher.
Lyttelton, just 15 minutes from Christchurch’s Cathedral Square, has undergone a transformation over the past few years as second-hand book shops, specialty stores and eclectic cafes have sprung up in the port’s steep streets. The Farmers Market on Saturday morning brings a loyal Christchurch patronage and this activity has spawned wonderful shops catering for the gourmet consumer. Fresh spices, organic beers and the finest of cheeses are all available. Along the waterfront, the scenic harbour drive takes in Governor’s Bay, Charteris Bay, Diamond Harbour and Purau Bay, with gardens, a golf club and cafés to discover en route. You can reach Lyttelton through the road tunnel or enjoy the dramatic views as you drive over the Port Hills across Dyers Pass. This will take you past the Sign of the Takahe – one of Christchurch’s iconic roadhouses known for its superb views over the plains.
If you want to discover some of the ‘secret’ spots of Banks Peninsula, then take the spectacular Summit Road and head out to some of the secluded outer bays, with their enchanting beaches. Okains Bay is a firm favourite with locals for its beautiful beach, and while you’re there, take time to discover the area’s fascinating history with a visit to the Okains Bay Museum.
For something a little different, you can cycle the Little River Rail Trail. This gentle trail follows the old railway line from Hornby to Little River, and makes a great family outing – the visitor centre at Little River has more details. There are plenty of other activities to enjoy as well, including penguin watching, harbour cruising, fishing and cheese and wine tasting.
Thanks to Christchurch & Canterbury Tourism for the use of their images
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