Vanuatu Island Guide
Ambrym (680sq km)
Ambrym is one of the few places on earth where you can see active lava lakes. The island’s twin volcanoes, Mt Benbow (11 595m) and Mt Marum (1 270m), still rumble away and smaller vents and fractures ooze steam and lava. Standing on the rim of Mt Marum, the core of the lava lake can be seen swirling and spitting in endless fury. On a clear day, it is possible to see both Benbow and Marum’s lava lakes. The acid rain prevents vegetation growing in many areas and the nuclei of the constantly erupting vents creates frequent heavy rainfall.
Ambrym is recognized as being the source of some exceptionally beautiful carving in wood, stone and tree fern. Visitors can watch a demonstration of magic and the traditional art of sand drawing. One of the major customary events, especially in the north of the island, is the grade-taking ceremony. During these events, dances are organized. One of the most striking is the Rom dance, which takes place in July or August every year. Accommodation can be found at Milee Sea bungalow and the Community Guesthouse at Craig Cove located in the west, and Solomon Douglas Guesthouse and Vat-Mer bungalows in the north. There are health centres at Biap, Endu, Nobul, Sesivi and Utas. Vanair (domestic) services Ambrym five times a week. There are two airports, Craig Cove and Ulei.
Aneityum (162sq km) Aneityum is the southernmost inhabited island in the archipelago. As with all the major islands throughout Vanuatu, its origins are volcanic and the landscape is mountainous. The island is surrounded by live coral reef offering excellent snorkelling. Beautiful white sandy beaches stud the shore, adding to its natural charm. The famous Mystery Island sits in the magnificent turquoise waters between Inyeug and the main island. It is periodically visited by several hundred tourists who arrive on the cruise ships. Adventurous honeymooners can stay at the Mystery Island guesthouse. The island’s only medical service is at Anelghowhat.
Banks and Torres (851sq km) The Banks and Torres are Vanuatu’s northernmost islands. Geographically, they reach north and west to the Solomon Islands and, being nearer the equator, experience the highest rainfall and humidity. The main islands are volcanic in origin with active volcanoes on Gaua and Vanua Lava islands.
The main islands in the Banks group are Vanua Lava, with 1400 inhabitants, and Mota Lava to the south - a beautiful island of jungle-clad craggy peaks plunging to the coconut-lined white sandy beaches. Gaua’s 1300 people live on the north-eastern coast. Here the local culture is still very much alive and unblemished by the modern world. Gaua has a stunning landscape with an active volcano, Mt Garet (797m), which towers over a crater lake in the interior.
The Torres group to the far north includes six main islands, which are by far the most remote of the archipelago. Passing yachts and the odd interisland traders are the only source of contact for many. The Torres group is home to the coconut crab, which is sent regularly to Port Vila’s restaurants.
Accommodation within Banks and Torres includes Torres Guesthouse. There are medical clinics at Lembot on Gaua, Lekwel on Mere Lava, Vureas Bay and Sola on Vanua Lava, Veverao on Mota, Ngerenigman on Mota Lava and Lehali on Ureparapara. The only clinic is at Lunaragi on Loh island.
Epi (444sq km) Epi is a peaceful island with beautiful white sandy coves, many white and black sand beaches, and inshore reefs. The interior is rugged due to recent volcanic activity and covered with lush rainforest. There are several small lakes where you can fish and swim.
Epi accommodation includes the Epi Island Beach Guesthouse. As with the other outer islands, it is always best to pre-book your trip to Epi through a recognized agent. Lamen Bay beach is considered to be Epi’s finest. It is very sheltered and there is shallow coral for spectacular snorkelling. The bay is home to several dugongs - one particular male is very friendly. There is a health centre at Vaemali and clinics at Burumba and Ngala. The two main airstrips in the island are at Lamen Bay and Valesdir.
Erromango Island (975sq km) The island is located in the south of the archipelago. Mountainous and mainly forested, the island is one of the largest and most sparsely populated members of the Vanuatu group, with villages scattered around the rugged coast. There are plans for a forestry tourist lodge to be built in order to sustain and enjoy the visual beauty of this stunning area, which boasts some of the finest freestanding kauri forests in the world.
Erromango is one of the most suitable islands for bushwallkers, with some challenging treks through wonderful scenery. Explore nearby Suvu Beach, a white-sand beach with hand drawings in the caves. Metesons Guesthouse – small and simply built with coral walls and a natangora leaf roof – is located on the banks of a river near the village of Uponkgor on Dillons Bay. There is an aid post at Port Narvin and there are clinics at Dillons Bay and Ipota. The two main airstrips in the island are Dillons Bay and Ipota.
Espiritu Santo (3677sq km) An hour’s flight north by light aircraft, this is the largest island of Vanuatu. Villages in Santo have preserved their culture and a traditional way of life has remained strong. During WWII James A Michener, then a lieutenant in the American Army, was stationed here. Such was the effect of this place on him that here he wrote the legendary Tales of the South Pacific, from which came the musical South Pacific. During the course of the war, over 100,000 allied troops and support staff were stationed here. For scuba divers, Espiritu Santo is the Mecca of the South Pacific. During the war the liner turned troopship SS President Coolidge, and the destroyer USS Tucker, sank in Santo Harbour, both victims of US-laid mines. President Coolidge is the largest intact shipwreck accessible to divers in the world. The destroyer USS Tucker lies outside the channel. Million Dollar Point, where war surplus equipment was dumped, is also an attraction for divers. Freshwater cave diving is becoming popular, with the recent discovery of connecting sinkholes and caverns.
Vatthe Conservation Area is one of Santo’s highlights for nature walks and bird watching. Luganville, the capital, is the only other town of reasonable size outside Port Vila. Although facilities are not as diverse as Vila, travellers will find their basic needs well catered for. There are numerous small restaurants and coffee shops, a sports club, several dive shops, hotels, grocery and produce stores along the lengthy main street. Flights operate daily from Port Vila.
Malakula (2023sq km) Malakula is the second largest island and the most diverse, culturally and linguistically. There are over 30 distinct languages spoken (although only about 20,000 people live on the island), each of which represents a variation of the cultures to be found here. Malakula art and ritual objects are among the finest in Vanuatu and represent one of the oldest cultures of the Pacific islands. In fact, the sand drawing, masks and tall head figures have great significance because they evoke the myths of origin and cultural heroes.
In the northeast, the bungalows are Rose Bay at Wala and Tam Tam Bungalows on Vao Island. Other accommodation includes the MDC government guesthouse and LTC resthouse in Lakatoro, Banam Bay Bungalows at Lamap, Ngaime Orsel bungalows at Uripiv Island, Malog bungalows on Maskelyne Islands and Alo Lodge at South West Bay. The three main airstrips are Norsup, Lamap and South West Bay. Flights operate daily from Port Vila and Santo.
Maewo (269sq km) Maewo Island is a narrow and rugged island, and its coastlines are covered with black sand beaches. The island receives the largest amount of rain in Vanuatu and has some of the most beautiful waterfalls. Maewo is famous for its ancient secret societies. The islanders still practice many different custom dances. Ritual pig killing occurs when men take ‘grades’. There are medical clinics at Kerebei, Nasawa, Marino, Narovorovo and Asanvari. Maewo’s only airfield is at Naone in the North. Flights operate on Wednesdays and Fridays.
Pentecost (438sq km) Pentecost Island has become famous throughout the modern world for the land diving ritual that celebrates the yam harvest. The ritual of the Nagol (or N’gol) has been practiced for centuries. The land diving takes place during April, May and the first week of June. The places to stay on Pentecost include the Nagol Bungalows in Bay Homo, the Provincial Guesthouse in Pangi, Vanaia Guesthouse and Walap Beach Bungalows on South Pentecost. There is a hospital at Melsisi and clinics and aidposts are located on several villages around the island. There are two airfields and four flights a week to both airfields from Port Vila and Santo (via Longana and Walaha, both on Ambae Island).
Tanna (565sq km) According to archaeologists, the first settlers occupied Tanna in about 400 BC. Today, the island’s 20,000 inhabitants have retained much of their original custom and culture (kastom), with the exception of one group of people, the John Frum cargo cult. The people on Tanna recognise the importance of their kastom and many have turned their back on modern ways, preferring a traditional way of life. The Nekowiar or Toka ceremony is generally the largest and most impressive. The festival is held every three or four years and goes on for three days and nights. Other ceremonies such as the annual yam festival, circumcision ceremonies and marriages are generally frequent events. Such ceremonies feature the unique Tannese face painting that is often seen in photos and posters of Vanuatu.
For travellers to Tanna, the most famous attraction is Mount Yasur volcano, considered the safest and most easily accessible active volcano in the world. 4WD vehicles can take you to within 150m of the crater rim, then a 10 minute walk takes you up to the crater to view Yasur. The best time to see this live volcano is at night, when the fiery display of erupting lava is most spectacular. You can also visit the island’s coffee plantation, which produces the country’s best-known product, Tanna coffee.
Vanuatu's Outer Islands